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The Expedition
 
On October 2nd 2006, Romanian mountaineer and outdoor photographer Alex Gavan stood on the summit of Cho Oyu-8201m, the sixth highest mountain in the world, in the Nepal/Tibet Himalayas. Thus, at 24 years old, he became the youngest Romanian climber (and one of the very few co nationals) to have summited a peak above 8000m. True to his approach philosophy of the mountains, he used no supplementary oxygen and no Sherpa support above base camp.


Following that successful expedition, Alex is now ready for a another challenge above 8000m and is organizing a 75 days expedition in the Karakoram-Himalaya mountains of Pakistan.

The team is completed by Andrei Nan of Miercurea Ciuc, a long time friend of Alex and an experienced mountaineer. At 27, Andrei is also member of Miercurea Ciuc Mountain Rescue Patrol, a ski alpinism racer and a winning marathon runner. He has previously been climbing at altitude in the European Alps, Tien Shan and Kilimanjaro.

The guys met by chance while sharing a snow cave at 6000m high on Khan Tengri in the Tien Shan Mountains of Kazakhstan while climbing the mountain from opposite directions.

Their goal is to climb two of the summits above 8000m (out of fourteen) in one single expedition: Gasherbrum 2 -8035m and Gasherbrum 1 – 8068m.

The strategy is to first climb Gasherbrum 2 in an expeditionary style (setting intermediate camps, stocking them with gear, fixing ropes on the most technical parts of the route) and then, after a rest period and taking advantage of already being acclimatized, to climb Gasherbrum 1 in one single push from the base camp to the summit and back. The peaks share a common base camp.

The Karakoram, is one of the greatest ranges of Asia. The Nepalese Himalaya may have the highest number of 8000m peaks but the Karakoram has the world’s highest concentration of high peaks and some of the largest glaciers outside the Arctic poles. The range contains four 8000m peaks with another 30 rising above 7500m, representing the most remote concentration of high peaks on the planet. Gasherbrum is a group of 6 high peaks in the Karakoram, located at the northeast end of the Baltoro glacier.


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